Friday Night Fish Fry in Oistins

After nearly two years of Government sponsored renovations, the "new" Oistins Friday Night Fish Fry has returned to its original seaside location. Situated directly beside the open air Oistins Fish Market, the colorful new buildings which house numerous food and drink vendors, craftsmen and artists are a perfect setting for the lively and high energy crowd who casually stroll the grounds in search of the best rum punch, fish cakes, and grilled fish. Loudspeakers are blaring Calypso tunes and before you know it happy feet take over as conga lines are formed with young and old alike swaying to the rhythm on the brightly lit center stage.

Wood fueled grills---"coal pots" in Bajan vernacular--- fill the air with incredible aromas of Bajan seasoned red snapper, flying fish, dolphin, swordfish, and barracuda. Or try bill fish or steak fish, tuna or marlin. The fish seemingly so fresh as to be proverbially still swimming. Marinated and slow cooked barbequed chicken lazily falls of the bone. Sides of breadfruit, peas and rice, macaroni pie, and salads compliment the fare in a casual, find a picnic table style dining where communal tables are the norm. Bottles of the mustard yellow Bajan pepper sauce dot each table innocently waiting to sting the tongues of the unknowing or to provoke an upper lip bead of sweat for the true believers. Not to worry as the ubiquitous vendors with their marine coolers filled with ice cold beer and island concoctions are always at your beckon.

The atmosphere is straight out of a Graham Greene novel: sunburned, bead wearing, flip-flopped tourists mix effortlessly with the ever-smiling local crowd, all in search of a good night on the town. The family friendly, clean and modern facilities are a welcome transformation from the Oistins of old. While some may favor nostalgia over change, Oistins was in danger of losing the plot several years ago when a less than attractive young local crowd fostered a menacing vibe with their foul language, ear drum splitting cacophony of incompatible music and, at times, lewd behavior. But those days are now fading unpleasant memories as a sea of laughter and wholesome food and drink now greets the never-ending stream of tourists arriving by H car and taxis. A brigade of uniformed Barbados policeman stand crisp and regally nearby should trouble even think of rearing its head. Young children dance with proud mums and dads, everyone fitting into place at the Oistins Fish Fry where the only rules are the ones Golden and to have a good time.

While Oistins is open 7 days a week, Friday night is the traditional festive party atmosphere associated with Oistins. Some shops, such as Lexie's, are open during the day. Food at night is available from approximately 6 pm onward. Prices vary, but generally expect to pay Bds $15.00 to $20.00 per plate of food (US$ 7.50 to $10.00). A real bargain by Barbados standards. Take the time to walk around and enjoy the hand crafted necklaces, shells, hand made shoes from the Rastas, and a bargainer's delight of interesting local art. Feel free to ask for a "better price" as everything is negotiable. The vendors all proclaim that they offer the BEST fish or chicken and their touts will attempt to direct you to sample that particular hut. But don't feel pressured as most offerings are of a consistent quality and similar menu. One caveat: if so inclined, ask whether the rum punch is "proper rum punch" or homemade versus a store bought mix. You'll be viewed as a local who knows a thing or two about their rum punch!

Billy O'Dell, with his wife Carolyn, are the owners of BarbadosBarbados.com, an online travel guide and booking agent in Barbados, and of Food Affairs, an elite and upmarket catering company.

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